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Ulla Johnson Spring 2026: Helen Frankenthaler

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This fall Ulla Johnson debuted her Spring 2026 collection inspired by abstract expressionist Helen Frankenthaler. Drawing from three of Frankenthaler’s works: Western Dream, Nature Abhors a Vacuum, and Moon Tide, the collection features flowing dresses, printed denim, and feathered details. Johnson described the work as both powerful and joyful, echoing Frankenthaler’s ability to merge beauty with strength.

Ulla Johnson x Helen Frankenthaler, Spring 2026 Collection © 2025 Helen Frankenthaler Foundation, Inc. / Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York

For the collection, Johnson takes Frankenthaler’s soak-stain technique, translating the painter’s sweeping gestures into etherial, lushly draped garments. With a history of artist collaborations, the Spring 2026 runway show took place at the Cooper Hewitt – echoing both Johnson and Frankenthaler’s connection to design in New York City. Johnson described working with the Frankenthaler Foundation as “the dream” – the artist’s work being feminine, and powerful, blurring the edge of the canvas – Johnson leaned into these qualities creating a fulsome collection, with its diaphanous, weightless fabrics; feather embellishments and fringes.

Watch the full Spring 2026 runway show featuring the collection here.

Artwork Left to Right: Helen Frankenthaler Nature Abhors a Vacuum, Moontide, Western Dream © 2025 Helen Frankenthaler Foundation, Inc. / Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York

Ulla Johnson x Helen Frankenthaler, Spring 2026 Collection © 2025 Helen Frankenthaler Foundation, Inc. / Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York

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